Back in Paris…

Day 1

On Sunday we flew from Amsterdam to Paris. Our original plan was to take a bus as we really enjoyed the French countryside at the beginning of our holiday. But then we realised a day on a bus would not be good for Paul’s back so we booked very expensive flights. Had we planned this better we would not have travelled on the Sunday! You live and learn.

 

We booked a transfer from the Mercure Amsterdam to Schipol airport. This took about 30 minutes and cost 55 euros. Money well spent as it was a comfortable ride in a luxury van rather than a small cab. Cab was 45 euros.

One thing we have learnt is to book all our transfers before we leave home next time ( if there is a next time?) as the bank wants to text you a code each time you try to pay and we are not using our home phone numbers. We have ended up paying cash for these ones.

We got to the airport and went to Gate 7 to check in. We couldn’t work out how to use the screen as it said ‘download the app and start’. Turns out we just needed to touch the screen to start. Felt a bit silly when the airport attendant showed us. We had to pay an extra 40 euros each for our checked baggage. As we moved though the queue, we noticed people were weighing, labelling and checking their own baggage. So we watched carefully so we would know what to do. Luckily an attendant opened the barricade and took us to the area where it would be done for us. This was pure luck as both our bags were just over 24 kg and the maximum allowable for 40 euros each was 23 kg. We said we would pay the extra. She asked if there was anything we could take out of our bags as it costs a lot for one kg extra. The she said she would let it pass and processed us. How lucky! If we hadn’t been moved to that line it would have been a bit of a mess trying to do this at the self-serve counter.

Then it was a long walk to go through security etc before we got to the boring wait part of the flying day. We always feel we waste a whole day when we fly. That’s why we love cruising!

Our flight was full and ended up only being 45 minutes in the air. We taxied for 15 minutes before taking off and after landing which made the 1 hr 10 minute advertised time.

We had booked a transfer and he was waiting for us as soon as we got our luggage. Seems we are always travelling to or from airports in peak hour. It was now 4 pm and it took almost an hour to get to the Mercure Eiffel Tower Centre Hotel.

When I first booked this hotel months ago I wanted to book a room with views of the Eiffel Tower and Paul was very against this due to the extra cost. When we arrived and were checked in we were upgraded to a room with a view of the tower. So lucky again! I am in heaven!

In case you are wondering why we have come aback to Paris instead of going elsewhere, we wanted to experience the French food. We both have this romantic vision of what we see on TV. But our first 4 days in Paris at the beginning of this trip had us wondering if this was possible as the smokers seem to dominate the food cafe’s.

We stayed in on the first night and used our drink voucher in the bar then went to the restaurant for dinner. We shared a prime rib for two and had a red wine. The service was atrocious for an Accor  restaurant but we were tired so didn’t worry too much.

We were back in our room in time for the 9 pm and 10 pm light show on the Tower. It is spectacular to be so close and not have to deal with the crowds.

I am sitting writing this block with a perfect view of the tower out the window.

 

Day 2

We slept in, did some washing, then ventured out to check out the local café scene.  There are a lot near our hotel so we had a lot of choice. The only down side of being near the Eiffel Tower, or anywhere near the centre of Paris, is that 2 cheeseburgers with frites (fries), and a drink  cost 48 euros. (aus$77). Paul was still hungry so he then bought a sandwich at a food truck at the end of our street but didn’t enjoy it much.

At night we had our big splurge evening we had been waiting for all holiday. We wanted to do a food tour to try French food while we were here. There were lots of walking and bus tours on offer. The one we chose is called the Bustronome. We booked it months ago.

As we did the night bus tour of Paris 5 weeks ago, the focus of this tour is the food. The scenery is an added bonus.

It is a double decker bus with the kitchen downstairs and a 36 seat restaurant upstairs in a glass top deck. This cost us 130 euros each. It includes a 2hr 45 minute bus tour to see the sights of Paris starting at 8.45 pm, a 6 course degustation meal and paired wines. Much better value than our burgers for lunch!

We arrived early (10 euro cab ride from hotel to Arc de Triumph) and had time to take photos etc. We were first ones to board so got what the waitress thinks is the best seat. We were very happy with this.

The back of the menu has a map of all the sites to show the route we will follow and an ‘audiopen’ with 8 languages so you can hear the commentary without needing an earpiece. Very practical and lets you control what you do and do not listen to.

Now the good bit – the food….

Servings were: (This bit is for our memories so ignore if it doesn’t interest you.)

Champagne

Canape of wafer with tomato and boccincini cheese

Tomato gazpacho and crunchy fennel, wild berries and fried basil (Ruth’s favourite)

White wine – like a sav blanc, but a much fancier name.

Zucchini carpaccio with langoustines, lime zest, roasted hazelnuts and squash

Seabream with garden pea cream, radishes and small onions, butter of ‘Espelette’ chili pepper (Paul’s favourite).  This also had a beurre blanc sauce that was not listed on the menu.

Pigeon fillet with cauliflower crust, potatoes, watercress and currant jus.

Red wine – very nice

Napoleon (sheep’s cheese), melon and roasted seeds (a bit dry – not fussed on this one, but we are getting full!)

Amaretto sponge with apricot compote and thyme flavoured whipped cream. Paul got to eat 2 of these as I couldn’t do the cream and ice cream.

Coffee/tea

 

We would highly recommend this to any foodie that comes to Paris. The service was excellent, the food delicious, smoking was not allowed and the driver didn’t cause us any stress! One of the best evenings of our holiday!

Strangely the bus was not full. Five people who had booked and paid did not turn up. I guess the driver, waitress and chef ate well after we left!

 

Day 3

We had another lazy morning and headed out to find brunch about 1 pm. We found a much more affordable option today. We went to a patisserie. Paul had a salad roll and I have a toasted panini.  The two rolls with a piece of pear tart and a coffee for Paul cost 18.60 euros. Much better value and nicer food than yesterday’s lunch.

At night we went back to a café/restaurant (Café Beaujolais) we had walked past many times and had very few smokers. I think their strategy is not to put ashtrays on the outside tables so people have to ask for them. We asked for a table inside and  the waiter was fantastic.

Paul was determined to have real French escargot. He has had escargot on cruise chips many times, but he wanted the real thing. They came with eating tools we were not familiar with. Very difficult to master in one sitting. But the snails were so different to what he has had before. I tried one and thought it was OK. I can’t go near the ones on the ships as they are far too oily.

I ordered Frog’s legs – they were delicious.

 

We had stupidly ordered a second course. Paul chose a Caesar salad thinking it would be very light. It was huge, He could not eat it after one dozen escargot. I chose vegetarian lasagne which came with a small salad. It was delicious. Best vegetarian I have had in a long time.

We wandered back to the hotel and I sat up to watch the 10pm, 11pm and midnight lights on the Eiffel Tower. Want to get my money’s worth out of our room upgrade!

We discussed what we would do on our last day in Paris and both decided we would like to do the luncheon cruise on the river Seine again as we both enjoyed it so much 6 weeks ago. I was able to book it downstairs in the lobby which made it very easy.

 

Day  4

We had to be at the Bateaux Parisiens by 12 noon to board the river boat for lunch. It is only a 15 minute walk from the hotel so we set off at 11.30 am and by the time we took some photos and bought some more souvenirs we got there  just on 12 noon.

 

Just to prove we were actually in Paris we took some photos near the Eiffel Tower:

 

As we walked we saw new things that we had only seen from moving buses before. I had not noticed the names carved on the side of the Eiffel Tower. I googled and found this on Wikipedia:

On the Eiffel Tower, seventy-two names of French scientists, engineers, and mathematicians are engraved in recognition of their contributions. Gustave Eiffel chose this “invocation of science” because of his concern over the protests against the tower.

 

 

We had window seats on the opposite side of the boat to our last trip. As were in a large group last time, no one had a window seat and I was amazed at how much more we saw on this occasion. I thought I would not take any photos but again it was like seeing the city from a new perspective. So I apologise for the large number of scenery shots.  I couldn’t help myself!

We had also forgotten that there was a singer on the boat to entertain us. We had had so much sensory input over the past 6 weeks it is impossible to remember it all. That is why we do this blog so we can go back and enjoy parts of it all over again!

 

Today there were 2 singers. It certainly adds to the atmosphere.

Near the end of the cruise they sang ‘New York New York’ as we cruised past the Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower. I remember the girl singing this last time but we couldn’t see the landmarks so did not get the significance. Sometimes it is worth doing things twice….and this was certainly one of those occasions!

 

The food was fabulous again and the wine flowed freely as it was all included in our ticket price.

 

We feel we have now managed to enjoy our 4 days of French food without it being spoiled by smokers. We have had a fabulous time.